Started by chefist, June 10, 2015, 09:46:44 PM
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Quote from: pate on September 07, 2020, 05:53:08 AMPlant Thunderdome, however:
Quote from: pate on November 11, 2020, 05:17:49 PMOfficial Veteran's Day State of the Lawn Address, from the People's Free Democratic Republic of pate Duly Elected by Unanimous Accord Dictator-for-Life and United States Shadow-President (elect) pate.And here is Plant Thunderdome after not even one brief year of the THUNDERDOME LIGHTNING project: 06AUG2020I look forward to a brief but exciting 100 days of Full Spectrum Subjugation of America to usher in the New Normal of an America Made Pate Again, the truly enlightened result of my Forward Looking plan to Make America Pate Again; at the conclusion of which I will hand over the Reigns of Power to K_Dubb's velvet gloved fist.So say we all, or you will die trying.Thank you in advance! It is an honor to serve.pate/K_Dubb 2020"We are going to fix totally fixed this shit"
Quote from: albrecht on November 11, 2020, 06:51:25 PMThe counts are still coming in. I hope certain ballots will be found in some bushes. Is the elevated flow situation of splash blocks due to heavy rain expectations or weird drainage situation? You need to get these dogs out running more elsewhere. Let them tear up public spaces. Let it be "tragedy of the commons," not your yard.
Quote from: pate on November 11, 2020, 10:19:17 PMAs for the yard, the dogs tearing it up are actually part of the program. I did my research
Quote from: pate on November 11, 2020, 10:19:17 PMTaking 350lbs on a dozen paws out for a "run" is a bit much for one guy, so that is probably not going to happen.
Quote from: pate on November 11, 2020, 10:19:17 PMThat down spout is from the roof on the front porch, maybe 15' x 7' section of roof, not much flow there, but what little there is I am trying to direct to the Thunderdome and possibly the backyard if it makes it that far. Thunderdome is really dry typically, and I almost never water it. They are elevated because the crown of the little local watershed there runs along the front of the house, about in line with the porch, so yeah, weird drainage situation.As for the yard, the dogs tearing it up are actually part of the program. I did my research and found that athletic fields use a mix of Bermuda and Bentgrass. I started with Bentgrass, and had trouble getting Bermuda until late last year and skipped any Bent seeding this year which is sort of backwards, I should have started with Bermuda got that established and then put the Bent in when it went dormant. It'll be fine, I expect next year for the Bermuda to finish filling in everywhere, and probably the Bent will fill in nicely over the winter and I can do a fall seeding next year in a dense Bermuda base. Too late for Bent seed now, tax-man ate up the Bentgrass money this year, bastige.The grass needs to "learn" to tolerate the stress the dogs put on it, which it has, it just looks bad in the pictures because of the low angle and the Bermuda just now going dormant. If there is decent moisture over the winter I think the tiny patches of Bent that do not show up so well in the pictures will start to spread in now that the Bermuda is going to sleep. There is a lot of topdressing that has happened over the past year and a half and a new gutter system.That is a really low camera angle on those pictures, maybe I will take a shot from the second or third floor one of these days when the leaves are gone from the trees. No promises.Taking 350lbs on a dozen paws out for a "run" is a bit much for one guy, so that is probably not going to happen. If I try to take them out individually the ones left behind tend to jump the fence and join the party so it is an "all or nothing" thing on Adventures. Nah, the PFDRp Lawn Rehab is one of those Long March deals, I will get there eventually and it will look awesome, just will take a bit of time is all.Plus it gives me something to do, I am always transplanting the little clumps the dogs churn up to the bare spots where they generally do great. It'll be fine and stronger in the long run with the dog abuse.
Quote from: aldousburbank on July 21, 2022, 11:05:25 PMIn a different dimension, Pate has been posting on BellGab for the past year and a half.
Quote from: albrecht on Yesterday at 12:53:43 PMNot for green reasons but I gave up on my lawnmower of death (dubbed so because I cannibalized two mowers to make run and disabled all safeties so blades would run without the safeties required by govt edicts and would run so loud and nasty burning oil so inhalations were, likely, dangerous.) So I went green n got an old-school mower for the house yard which isn't so large. Brand new for $15 by a guy who got it to 'help him exercise but gave up on that on being too hard.' Actually works great and added benefit it has that top cut (versus side cuts) like the pros use on ballfields and golf courses. And quiet so I can mow anytime I want and hear bizarre things like the guest on C2C last night who discovered a replication/archeological find of the Spokane airport under the sea of Baja! But the runways were even larger! Unfortunately Olivia from Austin doesn't have access to a computer with pictures and so she "misses out on a lot."
https://youtu.be/IG30TLMYyVw <-- this was the original vidya I posted which won't embed for some reason, the guy below uses a POWER DRILL! HUA!
Quote from: pate on Yesterday at 09:12:33 PMAre you talking about a "Reel Mower?":If so, I have four of them!A micro 14" (Scotts), 2x 16" (Scotts & American), and a 18" (Great States).I use the 18" for my commercial property maintenance gig, the Scotts 16" for my back-yard and have the 14" on loan to the back neighbors (they foolishly landscaped and planted grass in an area without making sure their tiny garden path was wide enough for their 18" [Mother Nature or somesuch nonesense eco-brand name]).The old and original American is retired, I beat the hell out of it on the commercial lot, and is mainly for spare parts.I think these are all pretty much manufactured by the same company: as the parts on the Scotts, American/Great States are all perfectly interchangeable with one another. Scotts probably just has them paint them green and slap a "Scotts" sticker on them then sells them for more $$$, gotta love capitalism!When I need new gear and pawls I order direct from Great States:https://americanlawnmower.com/collections/great-statesIf you have to replace those, REMEMBER to make sure the LEFT one goes on the LEFT and the RIGHT one goes on the RIGHT, otherwise the reel will spin backwards and not cut anything (this is actually useful when you are sharpening the bedknife with some sharpening compound):Code Select Expandhttps://youtu.be/IG30TLMYyVw <-- this was the original vidya I posted which won't embed for some reason, the guy below uses a POWER DRILL! HUA!Now that guy is using some special tool, but if you put the LEFT gear on the RIGHT side & flip the pawl so it will engage in that orientation and verse vica on the other side, then put it all back together you can just drive the mower around to accomplish the back-lapping.Hopefully, your bedknife has been properly adjusted over the years (equal turns on the screws on both sides) or the thing will cut lopsided at a goofy angle which is not fun to correct. This is part of the problem with my old original American: the previous owner didn't know what he was doing with the equipment which was probably why I got it for free. HAH!To tell the truth, I don't think I paid for any of mine. I offered the guy that gave me the 18" $20 but he just "Bro Coded" it to me. I think I owe him some weed or something.You can even get gasoline powered versions of them (à la mode de "LawnMower Man") if you feel like spending $1500.I recommend that, if you get one of those, pre-sweep your mowing area for sticks, stones and iron bars before beginning your cut.In fact, I recommend doing that with the push versions: hitting any of that stuff is akin to the neighborhood asshole throwing a stick into your bicycle spokes when you were a kid. HARD STOP, OUCH!And if it's a rock not great for the blade, even larger sticks can knick a chunk out calling for a re-lap.Tuning the bedknife is probably the most difficult thing: too tight and you won't be able to push the mower; too loose and it won't cut the grass. If you turn them unevenly one side will cut and the other one won't.Wow. Apparently I have a lot to say about these things. To sum it up:I love them and they are bar-none the BEST way to mow a lawn: low-impact on the turf, impossible to scalp the grass, and like using a thousand pairs of scissors to perfectly cut the grass.The only drawback is that they do not do well cutting more than 1/2" off the top, anymore than that and it will be a sweaty stuggle. With these the rule is: MOW EARLY and MOW OFTEN.Let me be the first to welcome you to the world of true lawn aficionados!Now:HAH!-p
Quote from: albrecht on Today at 10:46:07 AMThe initial policing the area prior to mowing is key. And you even need to pay attention while mowing as it doesn't take much more than a piece of mulch or a stick to jam the blades. Only drawback of the manual mower and it is a slight and easily dealt with. I actually was surprised how good the mower was, even after a months of letting the grass grow long (experimental idea for summer) it cuts through like butter. Thanks for the technical advice. I do think you are correct with regard to manufacturing. Seem to be essentially same machine separated by coloring, marketing, and price. There could, like seen in other things, maybe some warranty or maintenance differences with the higher price brands?
Quote from: pate on Today at 01:01:02 PMIndeed, sir. You will find that Hamm's (or any quality "Yard Beer") pairs well with the reel mower. I prefer the Pabst Blue Ribbon, or if I am feeling high-class the Miller High Life, while performing Basic Lawn Maintenance.I have found that there are certain weed grasses that the reel mower doesn't play well with.Duck grass (what I call it anyway) or Crow's Foot:...is probably the worst. Some folks call it Crab-grass, and I suppose it is a type of that, but the main thing is that this stuff will spread out low in a radial pattern from that central root and choke out the "Reel" turf-grasses that you want. If it gets to be a large clump, it can jam up the blades like a piece of mulch!Johnson grass (probably from Johnson County, KS *spit*):...is actually worse than "Duck grass," probably even more Bamboo-like than that stuff. It has these nasty underground rhizome/roots that can go way deep, and you have to dig every bit of them up or it comes right back! I don't have this in my lawn, but there is some in the landscape beds (especially under some ornamental shubs) that I have been fighting at the Commercial property. Round-up does nothing to this stuff, Round-Up sucks actually. It kills nothing you want it to and wipes out stuff you like, digging out by the roots is far superior...Then there is common crab-grass:...which isn't really all that bad other than it tends to grow faster & taller than your good turf-type grasses and makes the yard look like garbage. I call all of these "Garbage Grass," if you have a thick stand of this stuff it can easily clog up the Reel Mower and turns your nice white tennis-shoes green because it is pretty juicy stuff. Get rid of it!There are probably more, but those three seem to be the most ubiquitous in my parts. They all have a similar seed-head, make sure to burn those seed-heads unless you want to those babies to sprout so you can pull more weeds later.Here's a half decent vidya on how to adjust the HEIGHT of your mower:...that vidya-dude sounds a bit light in the loafers (he apparently has the left-leaning "EarthWise" version), not that there is anything wrong with that, but he shows the three different positions you can move the reel to if you take the mower apart to get to the adjustment bolts (this took me a year or so to figure out.)The higher off the ground the bolt mount the lower the bedknife is in relation to ground level. I have my back-yard one set to that lowest position, then you use the back roller/wheel adjustment to fine tune things.I think you can get down to 1/2" or less with these things, I have mine all set to different heights. 1" backyard mower, 2" commercial, 1.5" on retired original American and whatever height the little Scotts 14" the neighbors have is set to.Sort of a pain in the butt to change the height with all of mine, they don't have the knob/lever on the back roller/wheels: you have to unbolt them and move them around. I think Great States sells the adjustable-lever thing if you want to replace a static roller.I might get one of those for the 18" some day, as I am thinking about taking on the neighbor's lawn (he was almost begging me to a few months ago, but I couldn't make the time commitment... I am thinking of striking a quid-pro-quo deal with him as he is a Lawyer that specializes in Property Law which I will have a need for at some future point, I digress...)Anyway, the best part about these mowers (and the main reason I switched to them) is that you can leave them out in the elements and they still work fine (just need a squirt of WD-40 or PB-blaster)...My residence does not have a garage or outbuilding to keep stuff in, so all my old gas mowers would continually fail and have to be taken to the shop to keep them running (mainly due to rain because I got lazy about trucking them up & down from the basement every week.)I am a bent & bermuda man, and I allow clover to grow as well, but other than that it gets eliminated with extreme prejudice!What sort of grass is in your lawn?-p
Quote from: Walks_At_Night on Today at 01:32:33 PMBought a place out in the country - wife wanted a garden and a place with a real yard. There are two huge logs and bunch of branches and smaller tree trunks left in a heap out back. I'm thinking about going with a hugelkultur but the huge logs are a concern. Anyone have any practical experience with this? The theory sounds good but got some Q's on the implementation.
Quote from: albrecht on Today at 01:41:07 PMI've heard of this. No expert. Depending on your region you should check with your ag extension office for native plants and this stuff that, apparently, helps regenerate the soil and control erosion. Also consult taxing authority. Surprisingly you can sometimes get AG exemption on your taxes for allowing 'wilding' (plants and nature, not urban youths.) Sometimes even for smaller properties for things like butterflies or keeping 'piles of brush' (like that dem dar briar patch that a certain rabbit didn't want to be thrown in.) Or, at least here, you can even get permit to allow unlimited (well limited) hunting by way of 'improving' deer populations (more deer often means more chance diseases) and curtailing wild hogs- which are mean, vicious, and a threat to crops and people- but clever and reproduce like rabbits.
Quote from: albrecht on Today at 02:02:18 PMIDK where you are located. Here most of the trees/shrubs are cedars and mesquite. And various forms of oak which most people like to try to keep. Though one still sees Osage along fences and of course other stuff if closer to water (Cottonwoods, Cedars, etc.) My point is that German pile building deal would be tough with Cedar (Ash Juniper I think technically) because doesn't rot easily- why they were used for fence posts. Last a longtime and don't decay. So usually we burn them after scraping them up. But it seems we have more burn bans than normal so use for mulch (but stringy and sharp but pests don't like.) But probably not good for that burying system deal because will just sit there and get too warm, I suspect.
Quote from: Walks_At_Night on Today at 02:11:51 PMGood point on Cedar but none to be found in this part of NC - they live down by the coast. I'm guess the massive logs are some sort of Oak. I only have a small chainsaw and that won't dent these monsters and I don't have enough experience to want to handle a big saw. So was thinking about this approach - supposedly after the first year you don't even have to water anything growing on it. All that rotting wood acts like a big sponge which is perfect. I just dont see ginormous logs rotting away easily - maybe in smaller sections but I'm a cheap bastard and don't want to pay a dude to cut them up.
Quote from: albrecht on Today at 02:33:39 PMDepending on your location and water situation burning is always a good option. Because fun, easier, and who doesn't like a fire? With safety precautions and, like Jay Santos Phil Hendrie would say have plenty of coolant when doing so. Interestingly I actually looked up once and here there are technical, legal ways out of burn bans for "religious or ceremonial purposes." I though strange but imagine it might've been a semi-secret organization back-in-the-day or BBQ, which can be also be considered a religion. There also is a "warming" defense for a fire even within city limits. Oddly, official burning policies prohibit it at night (idea, apparently being, harder to id if fire spreads and people are asleep) but the ceremonial burnings are exempted (like a St.Han's or Middsommer or a good ol' fashioned cross burning, I guess.) I'm not a lawyer, so no legal advice or claim presented here. But bonfires are fun. Consult local and regional statutes and regulations.
Quote from: Walks_At_Night on Today at 02:35:52 PMThe rural South. Went to get my mail and heard a rooster, a donkey and gunfire. No problems burning shit.